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| The small town of Kingussie - as seen from the viewing platform at the RSPB's Insh Marshes reserve |
THE Golden Eagle is extinct in mainland Scotland - and that’s 'official'.
At least it is 'official' based on the latest research from a 27-strong team of frontline Lincolnshire birders who spent the best part of five days scanning every peak and crag in the Cairngorms, the Trossachs, the Grampians and pretty well every other mountain range north of the border - without a single sighting.
Not to fret! Members of the party managed, between them, to connect with White-tailed Eagles, Snow Buntings, Mountain Hare , Red Squirrel, Otters, Crossbills, Redpolls and more.
These species all found their way on to the list for a five-day birding
'safari' set up by the Lincolnshire Bird Club in partnership with Yorkshire-based holiday company Cairngorm Travel.
After an hour-long lunchtime break at Moffat in Dumfries and Galloway on the outward journey, it was destination the Duke of Gordon hotel in Kingussie a few miles from Loch Garten and Aviemore.
This is an excellent hotel which is enjoys a super-deserved reputation for providing comfort and hospitality in the finest Scottish traditions.
The best of the birding was within three miles of the DoG where, early on, there were close-up sightings of Dippers, some singing from the rocks in the fast-flowing Gynack burn that runs alongside the hotel, plus a distant view of a one or possibly two ringtail hen harriers in flight.
Heading on by foot past the ruins of Ruthven Barracks, it was just over two miles to the RSPB's expansive flood plain reserve, Insh Marshes, where the viewing platform provided long views of 16 Whooper Swans and other wetland birds, mostly duck species, plus, occasionally, in the copse below us, parties of Redpolls and Siskins joining with Blue and Coal Tits, plus one or two Robins, Pheasants and Dunnocks.
Red Squirrels were not as conspicuous as on our previous May trips to Kingussie - maybe because most were in hibernation.
But at least one was seen scampering between gardens behind the park at the back of the hotel. Once in the safety of the treetops, it was only too happy to pose.
In subsequent days, there were intermittent sightings of Treecreepers and Goldcrests, and one of the party, who ventured out pre-breakfast when it was still dark, was rewarded with two owl species - Barn and Tawny.
It was not far from the hotel, too, that a couple of White-tailed Eagles were see from afar, while other diurnal raptors included Buzzard (fairly plentiful) and a single Sparrowhawk but, as far as is known, not a single Kestrel, Peregrine nor Red Kite.
A scan-the-skies-quest-for-Golden Eagles also took the party, this time by coach, to Glenmore Forest (where there was no joy in seeing Crested Tits, but at least one was heard a couple times), thence to Loch Morlich where Tufted Ducks, Goosander and Goldeneye all showed well.
Next it was on to Cairngorm Mountain where the birders were treated, at the edge of the car park, to a delightfully obliging group of Snow Buntings - a sighting which eased some of the regret at missing out on another of the target species, Ptarmigan which were all probably laughing to themselves as they hid behind rocks on the highest peaks.
A day later found us in the heart of the Monadhliath mountains at Creag Meagaidh national nature reserve, where, soon after arrival, some of the party were delighted to be greeted by a mixed 30-strong flock of Fieldfares and Redwings feeding not far from the car park in a field.
Accommodated, meanwhile, in an adjacent field were a dozen or so Grey Lag Geese plus a covey of briefly-showing Partridges - thought to be Greys rather than their less timid Red-legged cousins which were seen elsewhere on several other occasions.
Throughout the five-day trip, the weather was warm, often sunny and remarkably spring-like, a happy reminder, perhaps, that days are not far off when Black Grouse will be lekking, Dotterel will be looking for somewhere high up in the mountains to nest and Ospreys will be swooping the lochs for Salmon.
A word, here, for the group, many of whom were meeting for the first time.
There could not have been a friendlier and more engaging party of individuals with a remarkably diverse range of backgrounds - including a former Royal Marine, a retired fire officer, two cereal crop experts, a multi-talented musician/vocalist with the up-and-coming Lincoln folk band Salt of The Earth plus the world's foremost authority on rockabilly music who also happens to be owner of what is believed to be Lincolnshire's largest collection of vintage gramophones.
Also in the party was Heike, from Jutland in Denmark, who, noting the desperation to find Golden Eagles, even valiantly (and wackily) offered to buy a dead rabbit from the local butchers, then strap it to her head as experimental bait.
An important word, too, for Steve - not only a super-skilful and careful coach driver but a wonderfully cheerful companion whose extensive local knowledge enabled him to enrich the holiday through with colourful and amusing commentary across a spectrum of Highland-related subjects.
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| Steve - super-skilful driver and entertaining commentator on local life and customs |
Plaudits in particular for his brilliant evasive action when a seemingly out-of-control low loader trailer hurtled diagonally around a bend on the wrong side of the scenic but narrow A86 road at 60mph or more
Somehow, even at 30pmh. Steve managed to pirouette the coach 180 degrees to avoid the collision. Incredible! Even the great ballet dancer, Dame Margot Fonteyn, would have been in awe.
But back to the birds and the habitats - not least of the latter being the Witch's Hill just outside the edge of Kingussie and a mile way from the hotel.
A few members of the group made a first-day visit here to admire the sunrise and the views over the River Spey to the mountain range beyond. Not only that but to scan for any wildfowl or raptors on or over the marshes.
The hill is reputed either to be where the last ‘witch' in the Badenoch region, including Kingussie, was burned and buried.
It was only online research later that revealed something worrying that we should have known in advance. According to legend, anyone who treads the top of the hill becomes . . . cursed!
Oh dear! That surely explains why Golden Eagles nor Ptarmigan were nowhere to be seen . . .
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| Moffat, stop-off point for lunch on the coach journey up from Lincolnshire, is one of Britain's 'dark sky' towns and attracts stargazers from all over the world |
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| This riverside path on the edge of Moffatt is home to Goldcrests, Treecreepers, Nuthatches and more |
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The Glebe in Moffat is a park and beauty spot with a large population of Mallard, Moorhens and sometimes other waterfowl
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| The Duke of Gordon Hotel - always a warm, friendly and generous welcome |
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| Ruthven Barracks - built by George I's government in the early 1700s as base for quelling Jacobite uprisings |
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| First birds of the morning - Dippers were often conspicuous (and vocal) in the burn running past the hotel |
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| The team study Redpolls and Coal Tits below the viewing platform at RSPB Insh Marshes |
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| Expansive - the huge Insh Marshes floodplain beloved of wetland birds |
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| The Snow Buntings on the edge of the Cairngorm Mountain could not have been more confiding |
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| By contrast, a mountain hare in all its gorgeous white finery presented just a blur as it scampered into the distance |
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Cute - this red squirrel is one of those that live in the gardens of houses behind the Duke of Gordon hotel
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| The Coal Tit is a very common bird in the Highlands - but is it out-competing the far scarcer Crested Tit? |
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| Signpost to the mysterious witch's hill - but what fate awaits those who climb to its summit? |
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